Iraq is proud to call itself Messopotamia - it's even on the immigration stamp and most government crests and logos. The mythical "Land of the Marshes", called that because of the Tigris and the Euphrates rivers which flow through most of the south is a beautiful albeit rough desert country, but in my limited experience, Iraq is undoubtedly more - a lot more - than the marshes. There’s enough history - both ancient and much more modern - and monuments to fill not one, but ten excursions and, some would argue, a dozen lifetimes. From the land of the Kurds in the north (which will be the subject of another trip very soon, so watch this space) to the land of the marshes in the south, there are countless things to see and stories to tell. However, for me, this time, it was all about th Ma’dan and the land of the Marshes.