Travelling with light - gear talk!

Caution: gear talk following - may result to spending and GAS!

In a year where Covid-19 ravaged the world and pretty much decimated travel everywhere, I was privileged enough to not only be able to travel, but to also test photographic approaches, new gear and, new travel and facilitation partners.  It was, if we must call it anything, a preparatory season and one that I promised myself I would make the most of.  While I’ve written about my overall experience from the various trips here and here, I thought I’d spend a little more time reviewing the gear which played such a big part in my travels.

Let’s start with lights - the main axis of my new approach and experiments.

I have been working with studio lights for years now, relying - at different periods - on Bowens and Lencarta lights with Pocketwizards and, of course, on Nikon Speedlights for all my trips.  Frankly, taking serious lights with me when I travel was always extremely problematic as my studio lights required massive batteries or generators and my Speedlights, while immensely portable and flexible, were rarely powerful enough for anything more than fill.  However, until relatively recently, the technology was simply not there for me to seriously take lighting on location (by the way, I know photographers who, even before, had taken lights on location, but that always involved massive batteries, generators, assistants to carry them and, overall, much larger productions than I was able to put together).  In the last couple of years however, this has changed.  More and more manufacturers brought out larger and larger battery-powered lights, in smaller and lighter enclosures, with better capacities.  While most of them tended - and still are - to be quite expensive, after significant research I settled on Godox.

Godox AD1200 at camera right, shot through a 120cm octabox. Ambient light controlled through a VND set at 8 stops.

Godox AD1200 at camera right, shot through a 120cm octabox. Ambient light controlled through a VND set at 8 stops.

There were many reasons behind my choice:

  • size was key.  Lights needed to be small and easy to carry.  The AD200 and AD300 were no bigger than my speedlights and much more powerful

  • power was also important.  By carrying a tiny bit more weight than my standard speedlights I could harness almost 6 times more power

  • battery performance.  As I could not always carry replaceable batteries, I needed at least 400 shots from each battery and, equally importantly, I needed those batteries to fully recharge within a single afternoon/evening otherwise they would be useless

  • compatibility with all my modifiers.

  • ability to follow me down the High Speed Sync path which, at the time, I thought would be the best way to control ambient light (more on this below)

  • price.  Obviously I could not spend over £3,000 to get what I wanted, so I needed something economical

I will not bother you with the details of my successes and failures with the lights, but let me review each of them with respect to what I wanted to do.  This is not a technical review in any sense of the word - it’s just a real-world trial and its results.

AD200 Pro

The AD200 Pro is an amazing light.  It’s light, versatile, extremely easy to use, comes with multiple heads for different uses.  You can literally stuff it in your back pocket, pull it out, place it on a branch or even on your bag and it will work and work.  You can get - and this is tested - just over 500 full power flashes from a single batter charge.  Oh, and on this topic, the battery is small enough for you to have an extra one on a side pocket without problem.  Using the adapter (S2 Bracket), you can use ANY modifier you want, from umbrellas to softboxes and anything in between.  

The list goes on and one: you can combine 2 of them to create an ad-hoc 400ws strobe using the AD-B2 adapter (which includes a modifier adapter!), providing even further flexibility.  Using the EC200 extender you can even place the light in really tiny spaces, something no other light on the market can claim to be able to do!  I’m telling you, the creative potential and options are amazing!  And, they are cheap enough - cheaper than speedlights - to allow you to have 2-3 of them and truly be creative with lighting.  To be honest, I can easily see myself using only AD200s in any interior setup without problem.

However, unfortunately 200ws is nowhere near enough for outdoor use, certainly not on a sunny day or even on a lightly overcast one.  Even at full power, it cannot really be used creatively in any meaningful way other than, perhaps, as a fill.  This is not a fault or weakness of the strobe itself - it’s just physics of light.  In my initial experiments, the AD200 was not powerful enough to adequately light my subject, even under the shade of a tree, if the subject was more than 1.5m away from the light.  2 subjects? Forget about it…

Godox AD1200 at camera left, shot through a 120cm octabox with a grid. Ambient controlled through a VND filter set at 16 stops

Godox AD1200 at camera left, shot through a 120cm octabox with a grid. Ambient controlled through a VND filter set at 16 stops

AD300 Pro

With a few exceptions, the AD300 has ALL the benefits of the AD200 but with more power.  While you cannot combine two AD300s or use an extender, the light itself is extremely sturdy, very small (about the size of the average 70-200/2.8 lens), includes a pretty nifty reflector (I personally did not use it, but it’s there) and - and this is the cool bit - it uses the same batteries as the AD200, which means that any extra batteries you purchase can be used interchangeably across the two lights.  In fact, during my first trip in Tanzania, I used the 300 almost exclusively.  To be perfectly honest, the combination of my two AD200s and my two AD300s made all my previous studio strobes obsolete (and have since given them away to charity!)

Again however, 300ws is not enough.  It’s better than the 200, of course it is, but so slightly so as to not really make a difference.

AD600BM

You may be wondering why I didn’t go for the Pro.  Well, really, there is absolutely no point - not to my mind.  The Pro is almost twice as expensive and you really don’t get twice as many features.  You get no better battery performance, no better HSS performance.  It may be slightly - and I do mean slightly - smaller and leaner, but that’s it.  However, the 600BM is awesome.

Yes, it’s a bit on the heavy side, but it puts out amazing light.  It’s fast (recycles at full power in less than 1’’ with a full battery), even a small light stand will easily support it, it has a built-in fan for even the hottest day and, as an added bonus, the built-in adapter is sturdy enough to accommodate any umbrella or other modifier.  For the price it’s so awesome I cannot see any other light comparing with it.  But the coolness does not stop here!  You can use the AD-H1200B to combine two AD600BMs into a massive and absolute killer 1200ws light which you can use even under the strongest sunlight!  Which is what I did…let me explain:

During the various Black Fridays, Cyber Mondays and all sorts of discount days, I grabbed two AD600BMs, a combination lead and two extra batteries for less than £1,000.  With that I had:

  • access to 1200ws of very fast light, with a total of 1000 full power flashes worth of battery power

  • but instant ability to use 1 or 2 strobes within 20’’

  • a lead which allowed me to even place all 1200ws on top of even the flimsiest of booms

  • I could easily control them all from my standard XT1 commander

  • the whole package fits perfectly in the CB-09 padded case, with its cool dividers and excellent strap, meaning i can carry it without problem everywhere

Modifiers

To complement all this light situation, I went directly with what I felt was solid choices from the get go:

  • an 80cm expandable softbox for the small package, quick setup and versatility.  This proved to be an excellent choice - solidly built, really tiny when packed, light and it literally pops-up in 1 second and you have it ready to shoot in another 4-5’’.  I cannot say enough to recommend this one apart from one tiny issue: in a windy situation, it MAY fall of the adapter - but even so, because you can put it back in in 1’’, it’s not a problem - I just thought I’d mention it.

  • a 120cm octagon softbox.  Equally light and equally versatile (even though you need a carry bag for it - see below), much bigger - and hence throwing off much better light, comes with a grid to better focus the light and, since it’s essentially an umbrella, works with almost all lights.  This is also a very good modifier with one weakness - the main stem.  It’s hollow and, as a result, if it falls (and, let me tell you, once fully deployed, even weighed down, a slight wind will topple it.  While the fall will not actually damage any part of the softbox, it will, almost certainly bend the main stem.  And once bent, all sort of problems happen and eventually, the softbox will become inoperable.  This happened to me on 3 different occasions and, on each time, the light had to be trashed.  Now, you may argue that with this being so cheap, this is to be expected, but seeing that the overall construction of the light is solid otherwise, making the main stem a solid one should have been very basic.  Special note here: I have since tried 2-3 other makes (in case you’re thinking this is a Godox issue) and all of them have a hollow main stem.  The alternative is below, itself with its pros and cons

  • Folding Octa Softbox.  Now, this is built like a tank.  I mean, you feel it the moment you open the package.  The weight of it, the overall feeling - you can tell this is a solid piece of equipment.  It pops out very quickly (however, don’t be fooled, it does take a certain amount of force) and snaps onto a light (or adapter) in a matter of seconds.  There is no such thing as a weak point in this product - I’m not saying you should try seating on it, but it feels as if it would easily withstand it.  The “problem” with this softbox is the weight - snapping this on the S2 Bracket containing an AD200 or 300 will make the light top heavy and will force you to REALLY tighten the base.  This is not a problem for the AD600 or the 1200, but may be for the smaller and lighter lights.  Something to think about.

a 165cm reflective umbrella (with a diffuser cover).  This is a very specific item and I bought this to be able to light large groups of people (for which it is absolutely necessary).  This, now, is how umbrellas should be built!  Every single thing about this modifier scream durability - even the button to collapse it is solid steel and feels very well built.  It’s big (but then again, it’s meant to be) so carrying it is not as easy, but it will work and work and work.  It is also not too heavy, so even a normal stand will easily support it without problems.

Godox AD1200 at camera left, shot through a 165cm reflective umbrella (with diffuse cover) approximately 2.5m from subjects. Ambient controlled through a VND set at 8 stops.

Godox AD1200 at camera left, shot through a 165cm reflective umbrella (with diffuse cover) approximately 2.5m from subjects. Ambient controlled through a VND set at 8 stops.

Additional Accessories

Not much more is really needed, just small bits here and there.  Most photographers who travel with light tend to favour something like a monopod or a very small and compact light stand, something like this (https://www.amazon.co.uk/Phot-R-Ultra-Portable-Studio-Stands/dp/B0767MV2XW/ref=sr_1_4?crid=249MBO76X2J01&dchild=1&keywords=compact+light+stand&qid=1609757592&s=electronics&sprefix=compact+light+s%2Celectronics%2C158&sr=1-4).  Now, don’t get me wrong - this is a lovely and very practical light stand and will serve most of you very well indeed.  It can easily support one or more AD200s and 300s and, at a pinch, will do a reasonable job at supporting an AD600 too.  But it will need someone else to hold/steady it and won’t stand up to too much pressure.

Which is why I used this combo stand. This has a ton of benefits with very little to count against it.  Let me outline:

  • size.  It is not bigger than most other studio stands.  Or heavier.  For all intends and purposes, it is pretty much the same.

  • versatility. This is where this stand really shines.  Used normally, it functions like any other 3m stand and it’s solid enough to support even the heaviest of lights.  But, expand the middle section and use the pivot and it turns into a very capable boom, able to easily support an AD600 without issues.

  • construction. Mine took bumps, falls and 12 international flights (and let me tell you, they really did try to break my stuff!!!!) and it still works flawlessly.  I have set this up on rocks, inside water, in sand and all sorts of other locations and, dust aside, it just kept on performing.  I have added over 60lbs of rocks on the lower struts and everything worked perfectly.  This is a very solidly built stand.

Carrying it all together.  I think I have 6-7 stand bags back at home and they all serve their purpose, but none of them are designed/meant for airline travel.  For that you need a seriously padded and solidly built bag.  After a lot of research, I discovered this little gem. Now, I cannot recommend this enough.  Let me outline:

  • size.  It is big enough to accommodate pretty much anything you can throw at it.  Even the stand I mention above and the 165cm umbrella fit easily within it.  And while some airlines will ask you to take it to the oversize belt, most will be fine with it.

  • build. First and foremost, it comes already separated in 4 sections, each one padded.  This means all your stuff is protected, both from the exterior as well as from each other.  The outside padding is good - like, really good! Mine took an amazing amount of damage throughout the various flights and, while this is evident in the exterior, the contents were very well protected.  The various handles and straps are very solid and so is the thick industrial zipper at the top.

If there is one thing this bag does not do well is, well, accommodate smaller items.  Because of its size and the fact it open from the top, putting something small inside means it will eventually fall to the bottom and getting out means upending the bag.  Not a big problem, but can be annoying.  By the way, I solved this problem by using a small net bag to put all the small items in and hanging it in one of the compartments.  Problem solved…;-)

All in all, this is now my go-to lighting kit (and let me tell you, it’s an awesome one!):

  • the stand bag

  • folding octabox

  • light stand

  • 165cm umbrella

  • two AD600BMs

  • the 1200ws combination cable

  • the carry case for the lights

  • simple XT1 commander

I check-in the stand bag (comes to around 7kgs with everything inside and I carry with me, on the plane, the lights bag (which you have to anyway, as you’re not allowed to check in batteries anyway).  The lights bag is a bit heavy, but it’s small enough (imagine the average dimensions of a laptop bag, just a bit thicker) to not raise a single eye brow from airlines or security (even though some will ask to see inside and pretend they understand what they’re looking for - trust me, they don’t but they will look it over very seriously and suspiciously before they wave you through).

With the above kit I can light anything and anyone, from a group of 10-12 people 5-6m away to a single individual inside a small space without problems.  It takes me an average of 45’’ to 2’ to set everything up and about the same time to pack everything back and, even though most of the time my fixer or guide carries the stand bag, if needed, I can easily carry everything myself (and have done so on many occasions).

So…what do you use - if and when you take light with you? Let me know. Also, ask anything you want to know about this kit and my experiences with other bits and pieces - I’ll be more than happy to reply.